Our Traditional November Pechuga

Guava Leaves Pack a Punch

Pechugas, within the agave spirits multiverse, definitely carry a unique mystic. Unlike other versions of luxury expressions, such as capones or madurados en vidrio, pechugas go beyond mere technicalities; they are the equivalent of 80s glam—full of extravagance and opulence.

As you may know, if you are a longtime Maguey Melate member, we feature a Pechuga every November. We choose this month because traditionally, pechugas are made either for big parties or as a tribute to our ancestors. A way to remember those who have passed by drinking their flavors of choice. And, even though nobody quite says this out loud, who doesn’t love a fruity boozy treat while it is cold outside, and one gets to sit and relax by the fire? Even the best-crafted hot toddy can’t come close to a proper pechuga.

On this occasion, we have the great joy of featuring Sergio Sala’s guava leaves / rooster / mole pechuga, made with a Papalometl. This expression is maybe one of the most complex pechugas we’ve ever featured, and we think the best way to understand it is to dissect each of its components.

In the state of Puebla, the nickname for A. potatorum is Papalometl. So if you hadn’t figured this one out, yes, this box was entirely dedicated to this agave species. We would be surprised if you could find many similarities between Ruben’s and Sergio’s mezcales, because they couldn’t be more different. However, we still love the chance to compare and contrast two potatorums that have been “treated” in the most different ways. Also, when was the last time you had an A. potaturum pechuga? If you go through any specialized bar’s selection, you’ll notice that the grand majority of the pechugas in the market are Espadín (A. angustifolia) based. To Papalometl as a base spirit did cost a pretty penny, but we are happy about it; you guys deserve it.

Guava Leaves

Guava leaves may be the most significant “innovation” or “particularity” about this expression. Most pechugas we’ve tried use whole fruits during distillation. Extracting dense, juicy flavors from full fruit pulp. In this recipe, a few whole guavas are strapped to the rooster, which is also suspended right under the condenser (campana). But the bulk of the flavors come from the fresh guava leaves, which are mixed with the mezcal inside the pot. This approach creates an entirely different dynamic. Instead of resulting in a heavy expression, it translates into more dynamic and bright flavors. And, oh Lord, this may have some of the best noses we’ve ever found in the pechuga realm. You could literally fill a glass and let those vapor aromatize your surroundings to impress bystanders.

Rooster

There are a multitude of proteins that can be added to pechugas, even though the literal translation would suggest “chicken breasts”, people have been known to throw deer, iguana, and even lobster (them monsters).  But we prefer protein with a very low fat content. We believe that these kinds of meats (like guajolotes, rabbits or roosters) provide enough flavor and body to the final expression without making it overly oily.

Mole Poblano

You may have heard of the seven types of Oaxacan moles, but Mole Poblano has its own identity, and depending on who you ask, it may be the oldest version of modern mole (arguably developed at the Convent of Santa Rosa in 1681). Ponce, Sergio’s wife, prepared this mole recipe, and it is a signature of their household. People are so enamored of it that a few really important chefs have come to learn directly from Ponce (gossip says they may have been the Pujol kids). If you ever do the trip to Atlapulco, we can’t recommend it enough: arrive with an empty stomach to indulge in, at least, a dozen tacos.

Note that the bonus bottle also features a Pechuga de Mole Poblando crafted by Ildefonso Macedas. We think that comparing these two expressions will be quite exciting endeavour.

Sergio and his family have been producing mezcal for four generations, and during this time, they’ve used many different tools and techniques. These days, they cook in a conical earthen oven, mill with a mechanical mill, ferment in wooden vats, and distill in all-copper pot alembics. But we did get to see some relics lying around in the palenque from the times when they used to mill by hand and when the alembics were crafted with very thin copper.

Maybe you’ve noticed a pattern here, but we are absolutely in love with “panoramic palenques”. They are not only in direct contact with the landscape (fully open to the influence of all kinds of yeast and bacteria), but they also offer the best views to enjoy a glass while gossiping with the mezcaleros—a little heaven.

We were lucky to spend a whole afternoon with Sergio and his dad, Balbino, while the full pechuga third distillation was taking place. It was lovely to film every part of the process: loading the alembic with mezcal and guava leaves; carefully setting a thin layer of mole all over the rooster and strapping it with a few full guavas to the base of the condenser; and finally, sipping on every version of the spirit, from the abrasive but delicious puntas to the very low colas.

If you’ve been thinking about traveling outside of Oaxaca, we truly suggest visiting Atlapulco. Both Sergio Salas and Nazario Salas (featured in April 2024) are close by, and every sip you’ll get will make your heart bounce with happiness. We hope you enjoy this pechuga and happy Día de Muertos.

Follow along throughout the month on facebook or instagram to get all the videos, fun facts, and conversations about this month’s feature. Some topics to look forward to include:

• The pechuga tradition in Puebla and how it may differ from the Oaxacan approach.
• A deep dive into the mole’s recipe and why does it make such a difference.
• A few thoughts that Sergio has on smoke. There is a chance that we’ve all been blaming the wrong thing when we talk about very “smoky” mezcales.

Quote of the Month

” Thank the Lord my family decided to make mezcal. I am the fourth generation and there is nothing that I love more than making and drinking delicious mezcal. “

Sergio Salas